#Frs brz buttonwillow cw13 lap time full#
#Frs brz buttonwillow cw13 lap time mac#

Hankook for example, on their C51's say that it's most important to run the tire in the optimal temperature zone that it best performs. Do I run the 205 tire at 180 degrees or the 225 tire at 150 degrees? TemeCal: I know your post was directed at the OP but I wanted to chime in as I've been facing this conundrum on my race car. We're going to add some toe-out to the front this week You can do things with this car that you would NEVER be able to get away with in a S2k. However, large weight transfers could get the rear to come out during the higher speed (90+) turns. Under steady state cornering, the car still refuses to rotate lifting mid turn did nothing, as did stabbing the throttle. Surprisingly, we experienced MORE understeer turning into turn 2 (the sharp right hander), but overall the car was more stable than with the stock alignment you don't see the large corrections when upsetting the car by hitting curbs from our hot lap two weekends ago. Also, that video is very good and I'd be interested to see what 86 can do vs the S2000 if the 86 had another 30-40bhp and -1 degree of camber up front. I agree in the video that the brakes on the 86 are very good (but the OEM pads do fade pretty quick). Spring/shock setup, alignment, sway bars and power differences, along with the FRS/BRZ's complete lack of camber up front even under compression. I attribute this not to one thing but a combination. I feel the FRS is less tail happy, even on corner exit than the AP1.

#Frs brz buttonwillow cw13 lap time full#

In my AP1 that would have lead to full opposite lock and a 'pucker'.

Would someone who has increased their negative camber up front chime in on this please? I surmise with 1-2 degree of negative camber up front that same lift-on-entry would then result in oversteer.

#Frs brz buttonwillow cw13 lap time mac#

I attribute that to the lack of dynamic camber in the Mac struts and the front tires getting over burdened abruptly. I would even enter a corner and lift the throttle on entry and I still got understeer (neutral to understeer). It might be better for oversteering than the BRZ but the FRS by no means is overly tail happy. In fact I came to the conclusion that it doesn't happen by accident, you have to want it to happen, to forcibly induce it. I had my FRS out on a track on Sunday and I don't think it has a 'tendency to oversteer' at all. Is it that the FRS has too great a tendency to oversteer and maybe dialing out the understeer of the BRZ to so something more neutral, but still less oversteer than the FRS is the ideal setup?